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In that sense, it is full of active strength. For Durran, the use of the iconic blue was a given, but she knew the costume had plenty of room for improvement

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[100] [101] [102] [103] Introduced by designer Kenzo Takada in 1973, [104] [105] [106] carried further by Karl Lagerfeld in 1974, [107] [108] [109] adapted for the US [110] by Geoffrey Beene shortly thereafter, [111] [112] and endorsed in silhouette the same year by the most influential designer of the time, Yves Saint Laurent, [113] [114] [115] [116] it came to influence everyone [117] from Calvin Klein [118] [119] to Mary McFadden [120] to Givenchy [121] to Perry Ellis, who was probably the look's biggest US exponent