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A womans possession of [outlawed clothing] not only suggested that she was living above her means, writes Varholy, but also indicated her desire and ability to change her identity through her clothing. This was especially apparent in women charged of playing the harlotte. Fancy clothing blurred the boundaries of who was authentically high-class and who wasnt, and who practiced what kind of sexuality

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Kandy was another star of such shows, which, as theatre critic Katharine Brisbane noted, were 'rare and authentic burlesque